Bread is Pain

Frequently rumored to make the best pizza in the city, I often find myself drawn to Bottega for lunch on the weekends when I hit up the Jean Talon market for my weekly produce, only to be forsaken by opening hours that begin for the dinner crowd. This time around I made a point of returning at exactly 5pm, being unable to contact them via phone for a reservation. Our group of four was sat quickly. We browsed the wine list but decided to stick to sparkling water and a bottle of San Pellegrino was soon filling up our glasses. Barely half an hour later the place was nearing capacity and the volume reached a crescendo that did not fail to sustain.

The menu is in Italian, with a selection of specials written on a chalkboard, which caused me some difficulty in deciphering without assistance. Luckily we had a former Italian resident at our table that was more than happy to explain a few things. Obviously we were destined to order a pizza or two, but a few appetizers were sure to grace our table, as soon as we could decide which. After some deliberation, we decided on lamb chops and calamari. We received a few slices of bread to nibble with a light olive oil while waiting.

The calamari served was a decent selection of exquisitely tender rings and the arms and tentacles that extend from the head, which happen to be my favorite as they tend to be far crispier. The lamb chop (served on a plate or platter depending on quantity ordered) was simply flavored with rosemary, garlic and olive oil and cooked to perfection. Though Bottega is known for their pizza, surely I am not alone in adoration of these chops, with their well-seared crust and juicy, tender pink flesh. Our other diners had ordered some sort of eggplant dish which they’d requested Parmesan for, which never arrived, despite a reminder afterward. Despite this, it seemed to be enjoyed.

Bottega doesn’t, to the best of my knowledge, sport certification from the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – essentially the “pizza police”), but they still serve up an authentic Neapolitan pizza that fits their exacting standards. From their imported wood oven with BOTTEGA awkwardly spelled out in tiles above its mouth, the diavola, which consisted of spicy sausage, slices of cow’s milk mozzarella and a nice tomato sauce, was a hit across the table. I had ordered the porcini pizza, a special of the night, and was not disappointed, though it was piled with a tad more arugula than I had expected to accompany it.

The dough in parts was lightly blistered by the fire, lending a crisp underbelly to the otherwise supple, chewy crust. Parts of the crust were a touch underdone for my liking and had a bit of a raw flavor and consistency, but the overall impression was quite favorable. I could see myself eating this with little more than a brush of garlic, a sprinkling of salt and a spoonful of the chilies in oil that sat on our table.

For dessert we shared an extremely generous bowl of perhaps the finest pistachio gelato I’ve ever tasted. As well, I had a dry, semi-sweet flourless chocolate cake that was heavily permeated by walnuts that made a nice accompaniment to an after dinner espresso.

The laid-back neighborhood bistro atmosphere, combined with authentically served food with quality, flavorful ingredients for a very affordable price makes Bottega very accessible and definitely worth checking out for the uninitiated or a return visit for those that have experienced it.