What defines chocolate is actually governed by law, though the major American candy producers, such as Nestle and Hershey, have been lobbying against that. In an effort to reduce operating costs, it would be much better for them if they could label a product as chocolate if it contained hydrogenated vegetable oil, carob bean, milk ingredient substitutes and artificial flavors and sweeteners. Despite the current legislation, it’s pretty easy to deceive consumers by selling “chocolate flavored candy bars” or other such deceptive monikers and phrasing. Chocolate is an experience that is meant to be savored, slowly dissolved on the tongue in relish (no, not with chopped pickles, but in enjoyment). Here’s what to look for to spot an impostor and to purchase the genuine article, free of mediocrity.
Cacao Beans
Chocolate, as you probably know, is derived from the cacao bean. The cacao tree is a pretty particular plant, growing only within 20 degrees of the equator. There are only two original types of cacao trees, the criollo and forastero, with a few hybrids of the two popping up in recent years. Forastero is the workhorse of the chocolate industry, producing upwards of ninety-some percent of the world’s cacao. Criollo, in comparison, is considerably more expensive, both because the trees are harder to tend to and because it produces a better quality chocolate. As far as the beans are concerned, a higher quantity of criollo should fetch a higher price, and this could be something to look for when buying premium chocolate. I don’t believe I’ve ever bought a bar of chocolate that listed the type of cocao it was derived from, only its location, at best.
Single Origin Chocolate
Criollo trees are typically grown in South America (such as Costa Rica and Brazil), and forastero are typically grown in Africa (Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana and Nigeria). The widespread knowledge of wine “terroir” led to single origin coffee, and similarly, we now have an increase in single origin chocolates. A single origin chocolate is one whose beans have been grown and harvested from one specific country or farm. Purportedly, the growing conditions will affect the flavor profile of the chocolate similar to the grapes grown for wine. I have no reference for whether or not this is true, but I imagine that single origin chocolates from South America would be likely superior to African ones, because that is where the criollo cacao trees are typically grown. Maybe I’ll have to buckle down and do a chocolate tasting in the future.
Processing
In processing, the cacao beans are roasted, their shells cracked off and the “nibs” they contain are smashed to a paste to produce what is called ‘chocolate liquor’. From this paste we derive cocoa butter and cocoa solids. How the cacao was grown, harvested, handled, roasted, et cetera will ultimately affect the quality of the chocolate liquor. Typically, with the exception of the aforementioned single origin chocolates, chocolate will be comprised of a blend of different beans from all over the world to meet a certain flavor profile. Pure cocoa is exceedingly bitter, so we add sugar to counteract that.
Primary Ingredients
The amount of cocoa butter, cocoa solids and sugar are the basics of what define chocolate. Baking chocolate (99-100% cocoa ingredients) does not have the addition of sugar, so that a baker can adjust the amount of sweetness according to their recipe. White “chocolate” contains no cocoa solids and is simply sugar and cocoa butter. Candy bars made out of cocoa butter does not chocolate make. This is not simply my opinion – the Canadian food labeling regulatory committee agrees with me. White chocolate is not really chocolate.
Fat
One of the things that makes chocolate so wonderful is the cocoa butter, which has the remarkable ability to remain solid at room temperature but will melt just a few degrees below human body temperature. This is why chocolate literally melts in your mouth. The only fat in chocolate should come from cocoa butter. It is a defining characteristic of what makes chocolate, chocolate. Many companies will substitute cocoa butter for inferior, cheaper ingredients, such as hydrogenated palm, coconut, cottonseed and/or vegetable oils, and continue to sell their chocolate for the same price or more. If you’re looking for it when you taste it, the difference is extremely noticeable. “Icy Squares” are an excellent example of this. Compare how one melts in your mouth to a piece of 70% Lindt, for example, and you’ll see what I mean. It is akin to sucking on a ball of margarine.
Cocoa Solids
Valrhona, a French company, pioneered labeling the percentage of cocoa in chocolate. It is my personal preference to lean towards the bitter spectrum of chocolate, typically around 65-72% cocoa content. The higher the percentage of cocoa solids, the greater the likelihood that your chocolate will be bitter, but with too little cocoa solids your chocolate lacks much depth of flavor. It is also in this bitterness that the flavinoids (antioxidants) in chocolate are found. Regardless, that doesn’t mean that chocolate is a health food; it just means that chocolate contains healthful properties. In my opinion, if you’re going to eat chocolate, first and foremost eat what tastes good to you.
Occasionally carob bean is used as a substitute for cacao. Carob looks deceptively like cacao at a quick glance of the label, but I’ve never seen carob used in a premium chocolate before because you would clearly notice the difference. In cheaper chocolate, on the other hand… Chocolate pet food treats are made with carob bean instead of cocoa, because cocoa is toxic to dogs. Why people think it’s important to feed “chocolate” to dogs anyway is beyond me. Anyhow, carob bean “chocolate” is, quite literally, dog food… that even dogs shouldn’t eat.
Flavorings
Flavorings are often added to chocolate, the most notable of these is vanilla, to the extent that we often feel as though something is missing in our chocolate if it is absent. True vanilla is a pleasant addition to chocolate. However, labeling can be misleading. “Vanillin” is not vanilla. Vanillin is a single compound of hundreds that make up the flavor of vanilla. If “vanillin” is in your ingredients list, it is likely of synthetic origin. The difference is the same as that between “artificial vanilla extract” and the seeds of a vanilla bean. This difference is not insignificant, and the use of vanillin over vanilla will compromise the quality of your chocolate.
Many other things are added to chocolate to impart complimentary flavors, such as sea salt, chilies, mint, orange, alcohol, hazelnut, and so on. If these things are listed in the ingredients list as themselves; great. Be wary of “natural and/or artificial flavors” in their place though, as they are almost certain to be inferior synthetics or derivatives. Yes, even the “natural flavors” can be suspect. Of course, if you’re buying milk chocolate, and “milk” or “milk solids” are not among the ingredients list, you might want to reconsider your purchase. Milk is a pretty significant ingredient in milk chocolate, but don’t be too surprised at what can pass as “milk” sometimes.
Emulsifiers
Combining cocoa butter and cocoa solids into a stable emulsion is tricky business. If there is a high quantity of cocoa butter (a natural emulsifier itself), the addition of another emulsifier is not necessary (but it helps). Nearly every brand of chocolate uses an emulsifier now. An issue arises when an emulsifier is added not in minute quantities as a stabilizer, but as a cheap way of bypassing proper processing methods or worse, to mask the inferior quality of additional ingredients beyond (or as a replacement) for cocoa butter and cocoa solids. Generally, lecithin is used, typically derived from soy, but other emulsifiers, such as guar gum, or locust bean gum (derived from carob beans!), among others, may be used. It is preferable to me to buy a chocolate that does not contain an emulsifier, as it is sort of a stamp of assurance that quality ingredients and processing have been used to produce it.
Final Processing
The final processing of chocolate involves two steps: conching and tempering. Conching is a European process that removes acidity and improves its flavor and texture. Lindt (the same Lindt we know today) invented the conche and drastically improved the quality of chocolate in Switzerland and throughout the rest of Europe. Tempering simply prevents crystallizing of cocoa butter before the chocolate takes its form. Omitting or hastening of these procedures can result in a product with compromised texture, appearance and break. Quality chocolate should be smooth, free of bubbles (oh, Aero, you confectionery deviant, you!) and white specs (crystallized cocoa butter).
Characteristics of Quality Chocolate
- Appearance: Quality chocolate will have an even color and glossy sheen.
- Smell: Quality chocolate will smell of cocoa, without other odors or staleness.
- Break: Quality chocolate will snap cleanly without crumbling.
- Texture: Quality chocolate will melt quickly and evenly on your tongue.
In case you’re wondering, Baratti & Milano produces my favorite chocolate, but I think that may be in large part now due to its lack of accessibility. I cannot find it in a single store in Montreal nor a Canadian purveyor on the Internet. Help?
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